Precious stones appear in visions and theophanies in the
Bible. Examples include Ezek. 1:16; 10:1; Rev. 4:3. These precious
stones, also used in jewelry, were well known to people in the
ancient Near East and in the first-century Mediterranean basin.
Jewelry
known in antiquity is broadly divided into two groups: everyday
jewelry and fine jewelry. Everyday jewelry, found commonly among the
people, was made of materials such as bronze, iron, and bone. Fine
jewelry, on the other hand, consisted of objects crafted from gold or
silver and included costly and precious stones. Jewelry was worn both
by men and women as part of clothing. The ancients also conserved
wealth with investments in jewels or used jewels as indicators of
socioeconomic placing in society.
Most
gold jewelry had sheet metal as its foundation. This sheet metal was
shaped and/or decorated. One form of decoration, filigree, involved
soldering wiring in a pattern on a background. A later form of
decoration known as granulation used tiny grains of gold as a
substitute for wires. An additional method of decorating jewelry was
inlaying with colored stones, glass, or other precious items.
Engraving was likewise used for decoration.
Jewelry
in Antiquity
Jewelry
has been discovered in Babylon dating back as far as 2700 BC.
Examples of jewelry from this era were found in cemeteries in the
city of Ur. Examples of ancient jewelry were likewise found in
cemeteries on the island of Crete, dating back to 2400 BC. Other
specimens of jewelry come from the Mycenaean world around 1100 BC.
Jewelry dating after 800 BC was of high quality. During this period
places such as Knossos on Crete and cities such as Corinth and Athens
produced beautiful gold work.
By
the seventh century BC, the finest jewelry was found on the Greek
islands and in Asia Minor. Jewelry in Ephesus was offered to the
goddess Diana, yet was also made for personal adornment. By 600 BC,
jewelry became very scarce in Greece. This scarcity lasted for the
next 150 years. Archaeologists postulate that supplies of gold were
cut off by the Persians. After the Persians were defeated during the
Classical period, some of the finest gold work was produced. Captured
Persian treasures and exploitation of Macedonian mines made gold and
precious stones and metals highly accessible to the Greeks.
Consequently, jewelry was readily available during the Hellenistic
period. The Greeks incorporated a variety of stones in their jewelry:
carnelian, chalcedony, amethyst, and garnet, as well as small pearls.
Materials and inspiration for the Greeks for certain types of jewelry
came from newly conquered territories. In the early Roman Empire
jewelry resembled that seen during the Hellenistic period. In
general, during the Greek and the Roman periods, jewelry was
gold-plated and decorated with costly stones.
Certain
writers in antiquity documented well-known or costly jewelry and
precious stones. One Roman historian described the value of pearls as
the “topmost rank among all things of price.”
Correspondingly, he wrote about two pearls owned by Cleopatra, queen
of Egypt, known as the largest in history. The Egyptian Book of the
Dead, dating to around 1500 BC, makes mention of amulets in the shape
of hearts, considered jewelry by some experts. These amulets were
made of carnelian, lapis lazuli, and green feldspar.
Jewelry
in the biblical world was known by different terms. An ornamental
circlet worn singly or as multiples on one’s arms or legs was
known as a “bangle.” This term, however, does not occur
in the Bible. The abundant presence of bangles as artifacts in
archaeological digs is an indicator of their significance in everyday
life in the biblical world. Bangles were stiff ornaments of
relatively heavy weight. Materials varied: bronze, iron, silver,
gold, and so forth. Bangles were of three types: bracelets, anklets,
and armlets. They were either solid, complete circles or circlets
with two distinct ends. These ends had specific designs, often
artistically crafted in the shape of animal heads, such as those of
serpents.
Rings
likewise were prevalent in the biblical world. Rings were worn in the
ears, nose, and around fingers and toes. Nose rings were popular
during the Iron Age (1200–586 BC). In addition, rings were worn
on neck cords. Rings not only were worn as articles of adornment but
also were used as signets. Brooches or pins mostly were worn on
clothing and were made of wood, bronze, iron, silver, or gold.
Amulets
were common as religious jewelry. Worn as divine protection from
harm, amulets varied from simple to ornate. Egyptian amulets often
incorporated snake imagery or representations of Egyptian gods.
Ancient Near Eastern amulets often were smaller than an inch wide.
Greek amulets were colorful and crafted from stones. Christian
amulets in the shape of the crucified Christ have also been found.
Although
not often worn individually, beads were the most prevalent jewelry
item in the ancient Near East. Beads were strung in bracelets, rings,
circlets, and so forth.
Jewelry
in the Bible
Many
different items of jewelry are found in the Bible, including earrings
(Gen. 35:4; Exod. 35:22; Judg. 8:24–26; Job 42:11), bracelets
(Gen. 24:22, 30, 47; Num. 31:50), necklaces (Gen. 41:42; Ezek. 16:11;
Dan. 5:29), nose rings (Gen. 24:22, 30, 47; Isa. 3:21; Ezek. 16:12),
rings (Gen. 38:18, 25; 41:42; Exod. 28:11, 21, 36; 35:22; 39:14, 30;
Num. 31:50; 1 Kings 21:8; Esther 3:10, 12; 8:2, 8, 10; Job
38:14; Isa. 3:21; Jer. 22:24; Hos. 2:13; Luke 15:22; James 2:2),
headbands (Exod. 13:16; Deut. 6:8; 11:18), armlets (Num. 31:50;
2 Sam. 1:10; Isa. 3:20), pendants (Judg. 8:21, 26; Isa. 3:18),
and anklets (Isa. 3:20).
Various
articles of jewelry in the Bible carried significance beyond mere
aesthetics. Early in Genesis, bracelets were used to signify the
desire for covenantal marriage. When Abraham’s servant
discovered Rebekah, a potential bride for Isaac, he gave her a nose
ring and placed bracelets on her arms to signify that God had chosen
her (Gen. 24:22, 47). The bracelets and nose ring weighed over ten
shekels. By placing the jewelry on Rebekah’s arm, the servant
indicated that a marriage contract was sought. The high value of the
jewelry signifies the high bridal price paid for Rebekah.
Early
in the OT, jewelry was used in temple worship. The law designated
that the high priest’s breastpiece and ephod contain precious
stones along with setting stones. The stones signified the majesty
and holiness of God as his people worshiped in his holy temple (Exod.
25:7; 35:9).
Lovers
flattered one another by comparing physical features to articles of
fine jewelry (Song 5:14) and admiring their fine jewelry (4:9). God’s
people appear as a jeweled necklace when God gathers them (Isa.
49:18) and are as highly esteemed as a bride adorned with jewels
(61:10).
Biblical
authors also challenged people’s desire for jewelry with
admonitions to seek godly attributes and gifts of God above jewels
and jewelry. Wisdom was to be desired above jewels (Prov. 3:15;
8:11), knowledgeable speech above gold and jewels (20:15), and a
godly spouse far above jewels (31:10).
Similar
to the habits of most ancient cultures, Israelite kings and other
notable leaders wore jewelry of special significance. Like other
kings of antiquity, Saul wore armlets and a crown (2 Sam. 1:10),
which were intended to signify royalty and competence in military
affairs. Such jewelry typically carried insignias that denoted
features of national and royal identity. The victorious warrior in
Rev. 19 wears many diadems (crowns) in order to signify his unmatched
power (19:12). He has more than one crown, and even more than seven
diadems, which is the number of diadems that the dragon has (12:3).
At
times, jewelry carried negative connotations, especially when
acquired within polytheistic trends of society or else designed as an
object of worship. Even Jacob was found burying his jewelry that
accompanied his foreign idols (Gen. 35:4). Such instances lend
credence to theories that even early Hebrew faith wrangled with
polytheism and was infused with its many golden artifacts. Gideon
made an ephod from the sparkling plunder (rings and pendants) of the
Midianites (Judg. 8:21). This ephod became an object of worship for
the Israelites and greatly offended God.
Kings
had signet rings that contained their own personalized engravings.
The engravings were made by stonecutters who carefully worked the
small semiprecious stones atop the rings. Throughout the OT, rings
were used to make impressions on official documents (Exod. 28:11;
1 Kings 21:8; Esther 8:8). Prophets used signet rings to seal
prophecies that were of grave importance for the nation (Isa. 8:16;
Jer. 32:10). Unique rings were designed by notable families in order
to signify the honor of the patriarch. Of special interest is the
usage of the ring in Jesus’ parable of the prodigal son. The
ring was placed on the returning son’s finger to show the
radical grace of the father, who was willing to join his honor to his
son’s shame (Luke 15:22) as the son was brought back into the
household.
In
certain NT writings, women are admonished not to adorn themselves
with external jewelry (1 Tim. 2:9; 1 Pet. 3:3), as this was
a sign of materialism and immodesty. In Rev. 21, jewels appear in
John’s depiction of the new Jerusalem: it is a city of majestic
beauty adorned with precious jewels, gates of pearls, and streets of
gold (21:18–21).